Montmartre - part two

...continue

"why the train door kept closing when boarding?...Oops!!!!"
Manual Operation! " I seeeeeeee..."

So, I missed the stop...but never mind, just another ride at the opposite platform will do, no hurry!

Although Montmartre is now in the boundary of Paris, it do has a different charisma once I've come out from the Metro station.

The super fresh air? the tranquil atmosphere without much traffic? the infinite "upward motion" to lead you somewhere? the people in a much leisure gesture?...may be everything that counts, I think.

Wow! it seems I am a bit "too leisure", visitors already crowded in front of Sacré-cœur, as well as inside. I have a special experience there but let me tell you later in other post.

The weather is fine but windy, so it's not easy to stay long in the exterior unless the sun comes out to warm up the air. Well, of course the scenery is stunning when you are "up up high", even superior if you climb up to the top of Sacré-cœur, but not this time.

In order to be "leisure", I carry nothing except my phone + an apple. This photo is so worst that the low resolution and freezing hands shaking resulting the pixelate housing at far end; but it seems time freeze, while I am wondering what were the citizen doing right there in those pixelated houses in the year of Belle Époque? and up here?

Divine Comedy...is now in my mind!

There are a lot more places you can discover in Montmartre, usually they have their own stories behind. But those related to painters or writers are far more attractive to me. La Maison Rose is one of the unique café located on cobble stoned pavement that you shall never miss it. It's as charming as a rose, for sure.

The story behind? I would like to invite you to read this post Top 10 Historica Facts about La Maison Rose - by Molli a very detail & good post that can bring you back to it's past! Thank you Molli.

Okay!I remember I have to let you know whether Montmartre is a "danger zone" or not? Absolutely not in day time, how about at night?

I am afraid I can't tell you this time, because my pair of sore feet beg me to leave, but I promise myself in front of La Maison Rose, I shall return!

In fact, I guess "fascinating" may be a more appropriate word to say, let's see...

 

Montmartre - part one

Day 6: Cold and Windy, Sunny - 13173 steps

Arrondissement 18 - originally it was not in my itinerary, it is one of the district classified as "danger at night" and advised especially to solo traveler; well, let's come back to this later on.

If you still remember I am having some extra days due to the squeeze of full day visit to the Louvre, so, "where shall I explore tomorrow?"

I have a thought that I may regret if not visiting Montmartre this time, why? I don't know, just have a feeling of...

So I take some time to plan my metro route, first time since I've been here on the 6th day, because I walk all the way through except from the airport. Enjoyable to my eyes but not my feet, and it's time to take a break for one day.

The metro system in Paris is not so scary to a Hong Konger that get used to be with our own metro system; but truly speaking, the route that I've planned is not so satisfied by the staff at the counter of Pont Neuf Station.

The morning is chilled, when I walk down into the Pont Neuf metro station; while I am taking my time to investigate the ticketing machine...either my slow motion or my Asian face catch the eyes of "lady Pont Neuf", she ask /shout to me (cos' I can't hear at the beginning as I am too concentrate to my "toy" + there is no passengers, except me)

"Bonjour...madam, where do you want to go?...I see...your map is not good...use this...oh oh oh, the route you've plan is not good...you better ride from here to here...change the line from here to there...and voila! arriving there!! Remember, change the line at St.-Lazare, remember!"

"Sure! I trust you, merci beaucoup! Au Revoir!"

"Hey, it's simple...." after a few minutes on the train...I've discovered something wrong...

Imagine - My Chat Noir

click to enlarge

The first drawing after completing all text/ or short poems will be the book cover.

Although Chat Noir was in fact a cabaret in the past, I love to imagine...or I suppose it did exist as a companion to the performers, especially to the cancan dancers in those good old days...so, I want one, too :)

My first impression to this symbolic black cat is her pair of eyes, so mysterious with a embedded power which seems telling us, she is not only her companion but protector as well.

The painting in my book "La femme au chat" (the women with the cat) is a version of 1882-1884 by Adolphe Léon Willette exhibited in Musée de Montmartre.

The magnet I've bought there is another version titled "Une paire d'amis" (A pair of friends.) The raw line work of La femme au chat is beautiful but the title Une paire d'amis is much more meaningful, don't you think?

This picture instantly reminds me of a cancan dancer (although there is no specification of this lady is a cancan performer). Early before, most of the cancan dancers are prostitutes not until this performance was highly paid in Moulin Rouge, living of them were greatly improved, as well as being famous around the world.

Besides Adolphe, Toulouse-Lautrec was another artist who always include cancan dancer as one of the element in his paintings; different gestures are artistically expressed.

You can find so many chat noir souvenir now a day in Paris. Designers love to use the traditional handbill version (but wait a minute, look closer, it’s not the original; compare with the one in my previous post). Anyway, I got this playing card as a gift from a Chinese storekeeper of a souvenir shop in Montmartre, so sweet! Merci :D

So, what is you choice?

Following blog 網誌追踪

Dear all,

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Hi, 大家好,

容讓我們先向大家道歉, 這也實在是我們的疏忽; 事縁作天收到朋友電郵向我査問如何可追踪Cocoadesignlife Blog？才發覺原先(多年前)設定的Feedsburner Subscribe Link 早已失效, 於是趕緊修復, 經過測試之後現今運作正常.

倘若你有興趣追踪我們的網誌, 請在右邊 "follow by email" 輸入你想接收文章的電郵地址, 接着完成一些簡單的核實身份程序; 並啓動由Feedsburner提供的連結作實, 這樣便能定時接收査閲我們的最新網文.

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Cocoadesignlife

Le Chat Noir - The black cat

Famous re-opening handbill of the Chat Noir
 by Théophile Alexandre Steinlen (1859-1923)

 

The upcoming Book Three of Petit Paris is  titled Chat Noir, French of Black(Noir)Cat(Chat).

A unique name to citizens of Montmartre in Paris. The first cabaret there founded by Rodolphe Salis in 1881. A place for pianists, shadow play performers, artist, writers, poets, musicians...all about arts!

During the era of French Belle Époque, the golden age from 1872-1914, here, Montmartre was a paradise to the high and middle classes.

Shadow play scene by
Henri Rivière (1864-1951)

Café, wine bar, music, cancan dancing...here and there, day & night. The bohemian aroma floats in the air. It became the 18th arrondissement of Paris since 1 January 1860.

Le Chat Noir, Moulin Rouge, Maxim, Bateau-Lavoir, Place du Tertre,Sacré-cœur, Musée de Montmartre, Espace Dali...all well known!

A portrait of Rodolphe Salis
by Pierre Poterlet (1804-1881)

A small village was transformed into a modern world. The long forgotten suffering city during in the Franco-Prussian War and the 1871 Paris Commune which brought communards buried alive on the butte of Montmartre - where the Basilica of Sacré-cœur was built later from 1876-1919.

What a sad history, it seems no where on earth can be vaccinated from War!

Same fate to the underclass, who barely shared any "fruit" from the flourish golden age; here, in Montmartre.

In the years between WWI & WWII, Francisque Poulbot who lived here, created illustrations, posters mostly concerning the living & needs of street kids; and at the same time, satirized the foolishness of War!

I shall say the feeling to Montmartre is "complicated". Wherever I see the prosperous side through its architecture/ history, it always link to the sorrow behind; but may be that's why it is so attractive, with a touch of regrettable and unforgettable...

P.S.: All photos are taken from the Musée de Montmartre.

 

 

無止境的貪念

或許"貪念"真是人類的天性, 地土、資源、財富、名聲、權力、慾望...沒完沒了.

心想控制了便等於擁有, 以為這一切便會永遠屬於自己, 可以坐着為皇, 世世代代千秋萬世, 真的嗎?

世界上從來沒有一件物件、一個人類、一個思想是屬於我或你. 容讓我以宗教角度而言, 萬物都是神所造, 除祂以外, 沒有人能掌管、能強行佔據. 神尚且讓人類有自由選擇跟隨祂與否的決定, 那麼, 我們憑什麼要同等的他/她向我們"依附"呢? 稍微壓制自我的驕傲, 容讓別人有個喘息空間, 真是那麼"丟臉"嗎? 我們...都是活在同一天空下的受造物, 為什麼不能逆轉"權力令人腐敗"這個咒詛呢?

是我們不能? 還是不願!

你認為對我的 "好", 可以"溫柔"地讓我明白嗎?

如果我的 "愚笨"未能理解並接受你的 "好意", 你能耐心一點, 也嘗試學會明瞭我的憂慮嗎?

是什麼逼使人瘋狂? 不再理性, 不再有同理心, 不再憐惜身邊的人, 不再明白自己在世上只是寄居的, 沒有佔有權...我想, 是"貪念", 也源於驕傲.

倘若世界已經變得無處可容身, 有一個地方仍然屬於你我, 就在我們的心中...一個只有神及自己可以觸及的地方.

倘若你已經很 "疲累", 就在那裡稍作休息罷!

請不要, 也不能絕望.

尋找 Francisque Poulbot

以往甚少會這樣把一篇文章分開寫和刋登, 多數會同時以 Bilingual Post Tag 去處理, 但是今次除了想尋找一幅由 Francisque Poulbot 繪畫的插畫名稱之外, 也實在很想介紹這位插畫師, 又或許法國人會較喜歡稱他為海報/名信片設計師. 由於篇幅稍長, 唯有分別刋登.

事源在巴黎蒙馬特(Montmartre)的博物館内被一系列展品吸引, 尤其這幅令我産生特別興趣, 正因為如此着迷, 連展品名稱及介紹也忘記査看,  不過這也是本人常發生的事...:P

這是一幅相對較特別的作品, 為什麼? 容讓我先來介紹這位畫家.

生於法國Saint-Denis 的畫家 Francisque Poulbot (1879-1946), 自1900年居於蒙馬特, 對當時舊巴黎被遺忘的街童 / 小童特別憐愛; 加上第一次世界大戰期間民間各種的苦况, 他在畫作中大部份以孩童作為主角, 從他們的角度去看/反諷戰爭所帶來的種種...於1923年, 他更在Rue Lepic 開設了ー間藥房, 藉此提供孩童所需; 正因為他的付出, 蒙馬特人特別竉愛這位畫家. 如果你和我一樣也喜愛 Victor Hugo 的 孤星涙 (Les Misérable), 在你看Poulbot的作品時, 也會因着有特別的感受而喜愛他.

Source from Wikimedia Common

不過在他反諷戰爭的同時, 也令他在二戰期間被囚. Poulbot 離世後"安睡於他的蒙馬特".

在博物館、圖書館或互聯網上找到不少他的印刷品或手稿展品. 除了彩色作品外, 我尤其喜歡他用單色繪畫的小孩, 也許很有童真純樸感, 也更表達到昔日孩童的缺乏. 而且, 如果仔細看看在畫作内的"對話", 很令人會心微笑.

雖然是法文, 但用手機翻譯, 即使未必完整, 也能會意. 以下是另外一幅我在館内拍下比較出名的作品.

il aura bouffé du boche

以下两幅可在網上找到, 雖然他的"戰地系列"似乎是較多人提及, 其實好些單色手稿或近似速寫的作品, 在繪畫孩童的形態時也很細緻及動人,

source from Wikimedia Common

Pas de blague! hein?...me les faut pour ce soir

在插畫下的"對白"再加上Poulbot的簽名, 是大部份作品的格式及名稱由來; 但剛巧我在尋找的那一幅只有他的簽名, 所以便成"謎"! 雖然在不同渠道也輾轉追査了個多月, 至今仍然沒有頭緒; 不過無論如何, 我相信終能找到. 如果適逢你知道, 可以告訴我嗎? 感激不盡 :D